A Brewed Pro tune or Etune will ensure your engine is running at peak efficiency for years to come making reliable power on demand. Engine mods, fuel grade and elevation all play major rolls in how an engine runs, there is no better way to ensure your engine is getting exactly what needs than a custom Pro-tune via Etune or live Dyno tune. Whether it be a stock engine with bolt on parts or a fully build GTR running staged injection and Ethanol fuel we are here to support with tuning and data analysis every step of the way. From the first engine start to the each pass down the drag strip we analyze all the data in order to perfect each tune on every GTR we work with.
Re-tune and upgraded tune packages: If you purchase a “Street car tune package” and then decide to upgrade to a higher level tuning package you can do so at any time and we will apply your original tuning package as a credit towards your upgrade to save you money and make upgrading your ECU tune as cost effective as possible.
E-tuning works as follows:
- Brewed Motors makes a custom base calibration “Map” for your Cobb AccessPort based on your exact engine mods and emails it to you.
- You upload the calibration to your AP/car.
- You take the requested Data logs Brewed Motors can walk you through this step and will also tell you exactly what parameters to log and how to drive IE: RPM and Throttle position **you will need to use a nice straight, flat road/surface you can safely do 3rd gear pulls on.**
- Email Brewed Motors your Data Logs
- Brewed revises the calibration based on your data log and emails the new calibration. You can normally expect your updated calibration within 24 business hours however it may take 48 hours during race season.
- “Re-Tune” after new parts are installed or new fuel type is used we normally charge $100 for a re-tune unless there has been very drastic change in the engine/setup. Even if big changes are made we will always be able to give a special re-tune price to returning customers, just send us an email or give us a call!
Pre Tuning Preparation:
- Boost leak test the car. (This ensures there are no leaks, even a small leak will have a big effect on the tune and cause problems down the road.) Click here to check out a great DIY boost leak tester article and build instructions from a Subaru guy.
- Test for coolant, oil and fuel leaks (because fires are BAD).
- Spark plugs; check you are using the correct heat range plug and that the plug is gapped correctly
- Check your wide band AFR O2 sensor is working correctly and connected to the EMS/ECU and or data logger
- Ignition sync; on most engine you should use a timing light to check that ignition timing at the engine matches the ignition timing value at the EMS/ECU
Commonly used/requested data logs:
***Note*** Each data log should be kept as short as possible (10-20 seconds is normal) Logs should be done in 3rd gear unless otherwise stated. DO NOT do any High throttle pulls or data logs until we have finished tuning the low/mid range throttle ranges.
- Engine start (cold start/engine warm up) this log will be one of the longest logs (logging from cold start to operating temperature).
- Engine start/idle (warm/operating temp) this log is normally ~15 seconds
- Low throttle (~10% throttle from idle to 4000 rpm) **holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
- Low throttle (~20% throttle from idle to 4000 rpm)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
- Mid throttle (~40% throttle from idle to 5000 rpm)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
- High throttle (~60% throttle from idle to redline)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
- High throttle (100% throttle from idle to redline)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
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